'A lot of good produce is freely available here, and when it comes to things like seafood, vegetables and meat we are spoiled for choice.'

Anthony Siu Pui Lui has a limited command of English, but no-one doubts his fluency in the language of food. Since 1981 he has been articulating culinary ideas in the kitchen of the Flower Drum restaurant. He is now a co-owner of the revered city establishment, where he continues to communicate in distinguished and distinctive fashion.

‘The fact that I can show my style of cooking Chinese cuisine and introduce it to other people is what really excites me,’ Anthony says via his elder son Jason, who translates. ‘In my kitchen here I can use traditional styles of cooking with precious Australian produce and ingredients. In many ways, the restaurant is a conduit to send my message out, a way of expressing things.’

Central Melbourne is a long way from the village in Canton where Anthony was born, but the early lessons that he learned about cooking from his chef father continue to inform his practice today. This knowledge of traditional techniques is balanced with new ideas garnered from frequent trips back to Hong Kong and China. The result, according to experts and casual diners alike, translates beautifully.