'Victoria is a sensational place for surfing. The area I know best is the west coast. As a surfer you get to experience and love all the magnificent surf breaks along the Great Ocean Road.'

'Bells Beach justifies its reputation as one of the great surf beaches. It is a magnificent break, and everyone wants to surf there.'

‘A lot.’ That is Bob Smith’s response when asked how many surfboards he owns. The avid surfing historian also possesses a vast library of books, magazines and memorabilia relating to his favourite pastime. A retired schoolteacher, Bob now works part-time as an archivist at Rip Curl and at the world’s largest surfing and beach culture museum, the Surfworld Museum in Torquay. ‘A lot of people ask me to answer historical questions, help them identify collectables, document details of who made certain historic surfboards, where and when,’ Bob says.

He also continues to surf virtually every day, continuing a lifelong love affair with the ocean. ‘From my home in Jan Juc I can see the ocean. A few weeks ago I saw a whale and its baby heading west. I raced around to Bells Beach and had a surf with this whale and calf only 100m away. The day after that I was surfing at 13th Beach and a school of dolphins surfed the waves with me. Surfers get to experience unique things that many other people don’t. It makes you feel very special.’